TS 2025 
.L97 
Copy 1 




^H^T^apo*,^ 





Registered trade mark, 

FEa 2"2> J892. 



Instructions for its Application 



—TO— 



CARRIAGES. 



Copyright 1892. by Henry A. Luttgens. 



H. A. LUTTGENS, 



PATERSON, 



Box 131. 



NEW JERSEY. 



United States of America 



MAY 4 1 892 \ 



PATERSON, N. J. : 

PRESS PRINTING AND PUBLISHING COMPANY. 
1892. 



0*° 



INDEX AND RECAPITULATION. V 



Before ordering the J.#teW coupling examine Page 5-6. 

Page 

1. Table with directions for fitting 5 

2. Average height at end of pole 40 in. and for shafts 44 

in. at harness stirrup or tugs 7 

3. Springs 7 

4. Spring caps 7 

5. Tools for fitting 8 

6. Template... 8 

7. How to file the coupling S 

8. Measure for width of axle 9 

9. How to prace coupling on axle 9 

10. Bed pieces on Carriage axle and axles without bed pieces. 10 

11. Bracket foot of spring rigging 10 

13. Bed pieces when made of soft wood 11 

13. A xles rounded at bottom 11 

14. Length of thread on clips 11 

15. How to bring clip into position 11 

16. Trimming off top of coupling box 11 

17 Shorten to within }£ in. of nuts and round off end of clip 
bolts. In removing coupling strike square blows at 

end of bolt 12 

18. Drive in wood wedge before placing coupling on axle 12 

19. Where to place the couplings 12 

20 It requires a monkey wrench to insert and move the pole 
or shaft irons in coupling, before they are welded to 
irons; use oil 12-13 

21. See if spring caps vibrate in coupling box with movement 

of shafts 13 

22. Cut end of each shaft to give clearance at bottom 13 

23. Never bend irons unless they are first heated to a 

bright red 13 

24. Proper methods for bending the irons 14 

25. Harden hook and pole irons, heating 

them to a bright red and immerse 
them into clean cold water before 

they are secured to shafts and pole. 14 

2§ Use straight edge and take twist out of hook irons 15 



The Axtell Coupling 

FOR CARRIAGES 

Is constructed upon the general principle of the Stand- 
ard Car coupling of the Master Car Builders' Association 
of the United States of America. 

It has many points to commend it to public attention. 

As simple as any other coupling, its wearing faces are 
carefully shaped and case hardened; it is secured by a 
single bolt with double nuts, which with ordinary care in 
fitting, secures it so that it will not get loose or wear the 
bed piece. 

To change from shaft to pole it is only necessary to raise 
both to a high position, press downward and push the irons 
in or out of the coupling; so that a Carriage can be changed 
from shaft to pole in a few moments. To facilitate this 
operation it is convenient to place a crotched stick about 
40 in. long, under one side to hold it in its nearly vertical 
position while the other side is attended to. 

After being entered intoirhe coupling, it is impossible to 
detach the shafts or pole, except in this one special man- 
ner, and with no part liable to get loose and drop out, 
which makes it the safest and simplest coupling in use. 

A projection at the end of the spring cap and a corres- 
ponding shoulder formed on the irons, hold the shafts or 
pole in position, while one side or the other is attended to. 

The inner surfaces in contact with the springs are raised 
and rounded, which imparts a rocking movement to the 
spring cap, while the Carriage is in motion, so that there 
is no friction between the hook iron and spring cap, ex- 



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— 4 — 

cept when the Carriage passes through depressions in the 
roadbed ; this together with the hardened wearing surfaces 
accounts for its good wearing qualities. 

The spiral springs which supply the requisite tension, 
are made of the finest quality of spring steel, and will of- 
ten last for years. 

By raising the shafts when not in use to a nearly verti- 
cal position, the springs are relieved of pressure. 

Sizes in stock are for |-, 1 and lg- in. axles. 

We find a disposition on the part of a few of 
our customers to follow opinions of their own, 
in place of the instructions contained herein. 
To avoid any difficulty send post-.il to H. A. 
Luttgens, Box 131, Paterson, N. J., and in- 
quire about any change you propose to make in 
fitting. Mr. L. will be pleased to advise you 
in the matter. 



Axtell Coupling. 

Instructions for its Application. 



To insure permanent good results with the Axtell Coup- 
ling it is necessary that the following instructions are read 
and carried out in practice. 

Nothing will answer or be good enough in fitting that does 
not correspond with these instructions. Though fitted 
easily, the coupling must yet be fitted just right, by a 
mechanic, who has experience in the use of a file and who 
can make a good weld. 



6 — 




£*L >\ 



— 4 



J.T-. 



not correspond with these instructions, xnougn ntieu 
easily, the coupling must yet be fitted just right, by a 
mechanic, who has experience in the use of a file and who 
can make a good weld. 



6 — 



This table refers to two kinds of spring caps as shown; 
which one of tbese is to be used, depends upon the dis- 
tance B from Whifnetree to Dashboard when the shafts 
are raised 44 inches above the ground at the tugs or 
harness stirrup, and the pole 40 in. at its end, which is an 
average height for Carriage horses. 

Measure distance A ns indicated and note in the table in 
which column the figure below B is found under- 
neath the drawing of the spring caps. 

If foi the distance A the least distance B is found to be 
less than that given in the table, an extension must be 
usad; this extension is shown below to be 5 inches long 
and adds about 3 inches to the distance A and distance B. 
One half of this or H inches will be added to the distance 
B as measured when compared with A after the extension 
is put on, so that if the original distance A is 20 in. and 
B 8^ in. or U in. short of 10 inches, then the extension 
wi.l make A "23 in. and B lH hi. adding 3 inches to both 
A and B which is right for B as it must not be less than 
one half of A. 

If the shafts are new the 
wood may be straightened 
in the bend to give the re- 
quired distance for B with- 
out the extension ; this may- 
also be done with old shafts 
if they are made of good 
hickory wood. 




j<_ S** » 





Table with Directions 

I . 



£ntl6 Ct/<r*4. theu "H./rv£&d 
j/rutd m- cc€d c&aw ura&r- 




— 7 — 

2. The average height of the end of pole, when in posi- 
tion for the horses is 40 inches above the ground. 

1 he pole generally has more clearance than the shafts, but 
not in all cases, therefore when the height of the end of the 
pole is 4.0 in. from the ground examine the distances A and B 
at that part or point of the pole which brings up to the dash- 
board hist, to see if distance B is ^ the distance A for the 
straight top spring cap, or not less than in the proportion 
of 2 to 3 or | the distance A for the spring cap with pro- 
jecting lip or for instance if A is 18, divided by 3 which 
makes 6, then 2x6 is 12 in. for B. 

The distance B for either pole or shaft therefore deter- 
mines as explained above the style of spring caps to be 
used, with the Axtell coupling, see table page 5. 

Both Shaft and Pole irons must show ^ in. at C upon 
the spring cap as indicated on drawing, when the shafis at 
the harness stirrup or tugs are raised 44 inches and the 
end of the pole 40 inches above the ground ; the measure 
of \ in. at C must be observed in all cases, as 1-16 in. dif- 
ference more or less amounts to 5 inches in height at the 
tugs or harness stirrup. 



3. The springs have lasted for more than three years 
without renewal, yet it sometimes happens that one of the 
springs will give out in less time. 

As each coupling is provided with double springs, any 
shaking, though the looseness may not be perceptible to 
the touch, when the Carriage is not in motion, is evidence 
that one of the springs needs renewal; this should be at- 
tended to at once, since, if the Cairiage is used in this 
manner, it will shorten the life of the coupling. 

After the coupling gets somewhat worn a thin washer, 
§ in. diameter with a hole not more than 3-16 in. diameter 
may be placed underneath the springs (the hole in the 
washer is necessary to prevent water to remain in the 
spring pocket.) _________ 

4. The spring caps are made of cast steel, they are not 
hardened; they will wear slowly and only at the place, 
where the hook rests upon the cap. 



When at any time the springs need renewal, examine 
the caps and renew the same if worn to any extent ; these 
caps are the same size for 1^-, 1 or ^ in. couplings, they 
will be sent to any address on application. Bee pi ice list. 



Directions for Fitting. 

5. Tools for Fitting : 




1 

\ 


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A mallet. 

A medium size hammer. 

A spring caliper. 

An ordinary small half-round 

file. 
A 14-iuch smooth- edge bastard 

file. 



6. Cut a thin wood template 
and fit to face of axle. 




7. Lay tem- 
plate on both 
sides of coupling 
box, scribe to 
template at a, 
and file to shape 
with half-round 
file. 




— 9 — 

8. Measure width of Axle and file 
opening of coupling to correspond with 
C ; use smooth edge file, so as to file 
only at b; the face when filed should in- 
cline, as shown by line d, c 

See 7 th memorandum. 



9. In Fitting 
strike alternately 
with wood mallet 
as shown. Be sure 
to make a good fit 
at b, as the suc- 
cess of the coup- 
ling depends very 
much upon it. 

Do not file the 

coupling box for 

fitting at any oth~ 

er place than at 

b, after being first 

filed at a. 

Do not use an iron hammer for driving up, but use a 
wooden mallet with moderation. 

The coupling box must be a tight fit on the bottom of the 
axle, and if for any reason it should not be firm on the 
axle before the bolt is turned down, place a thin liner 

made of Russia or other 
sheet iron in the rear of the 




V 



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axle, its size is to be ixl^ ; 
it may be reduced on the 
bottom edge, as shown, and 
the centre slightly bent over 
so that the axle will hold it 



in position. 



— 10 — 

This looseness of the box is sometimes caused by a dif- 
ference of width in the two sides of the same axle, so that 
for instance, one side of the axle is 15-16 in. and the other 
1 inch wide; this should be noticed before the couplings 
are being fitted. 

Before fitting, clean off any dirt or paint with a file, in 
front and rear of axle and in every case be sure to make a 
good fit, as this is a most important point about this coup- 
ling. 



10. Some Carriages are made without bedpiece on 
axles, except short bedpieces where the Couplings or Jack 
clips fasten to the axle ; in that case the coupling secures 
the^bedpiece, as well as itself to the axle; be sure that 
these short bedpieces are made of good hickory and if 
long enough add a common clip near the coupling box. 

These short bedpieces if made of ash or soft wood will 
not answer. 

On axles where the common shaft coupling is secured 
to the square iron axle without any bedpiece, short bed- 
pieces as described above must be provided for the Axtell 
Coupling. The total height of bedpiece and axle, with 
spring bracket foot, if there is one, should be for 1^ in. 
axle : 1|- in. ; for 1 in. axle: If in. ; and for f- in. axle : If in. 



11. It will be noticed that in some cases a bracket 
extends below that part of the axle, where the coupling is 
fitted ; this bracket holds a bolt of the eliptic spring fixtures. 

The foot of this bracket requires filing to make its bot- 
tom face parallel or straight with the bottom of the axle. 
In this case the coupling boxes should be fitted with spec- 
ial care, as its rear projections must be made a good fit to 
the rear of the axle, which in this case they cover only 
about g- of an inch, on account of the bracket here placed 
below the axle. 

This bracket may be easily removed after the jack clip 
is taken off, by unscrewing a small nut which holds it in 
position, then it may be filed. 



— 11 — 

12. On cheap Carriages the axle bedpieces are some- 
times made of wood nearly as soft as white pine, which 
yields easily to pressure ; in such a case it is desirable to 
cover the top of the bedpiece with thin sheet iron say 2 
inches wide, fastened with 2 small screws, before the 
Axle 11 Couplings are secured to the axle. 



13. On many Carriages the axles are rounded under- 
neath with the ends on each side left square or straight at 
bottom, where to fasten the shaft couplings, but some 
shafts are made so narrow, that the Couplings do not get 
the benefit of this straight part ; in that case longer cross- 
bars must be fitted to the shafts, to widen the shafts. 

It is necessary that at least one half of each of the 
Axtell Couplings should cover this bottom straight part 
of the axle. 



14. The clips of the Axtell Coupling are made with a 
long thread, sufficiently long to allow the nuts to be tight- 
ened up. If iu any case there is no surplus thread when 
the nuts are secured at first, place a thick washer above 
the nuts, but for any other reason the washer is not wanted. 



15. After fitting turn down the clip over top of axle and 
screw up tight, occasionally using the mallet at/, see 9 on 
page 9, until the box is fully up into its place; then use a 
medium size hammer upon top and back of clip to make 
it conform to shape of bedpiece and axle, while screwing 
up strike light blows at/. 

If the box is well fitted at b, the clip will not get loose 
or wear into the top of the be dpiece. Bee page 9. 




16. After the box is secured to 
the axle, file off any projecting 
edges at top of coupling as shown 
by lines g and h. 



— 12 — 

1 7. Put both nuts on bolt and saw off or cut end of bolt 
to within ^ in. of nuts; take down couplings and round 
off the end of bolts. The end of the bolts must never 
be riveted over. 

In removing the coupling strike square blows from the 
bottom and always upon the end of the bolt, so as not to 
bend the bolt. 




18. The boxes are 
now ready to be finally 
secured to the axle : 
First put in springs 
and spring caps and 
drive in a small hard 
wood wedge as 
shown, to press down 
the springs. 



19. In placing boxes on axles, be careful to secure them 
in the right place for width of shafts, and it is of impor- 
tance that the position of the boxes and width of shaft 
and pole irons should correspond exactly. 

Carelessness in this particular will cause the box to 
wear badly, as side pressure is already provided for in the 
coupling itself. 



20. To insert shaft or pole irons into the coupling be- 
fore welding, it is necessary to use a monkey wrench to in- 
crease the leverage of the irons ; put oil on the hooks 



— 13 — 

These couplings may be oiled occasionally together with the 
wheels ; a little axle grease put on the bottom flat place of the 
hook will make the shafts work very easy. 

Please inform parties of this, who have the Axtell coupling 
applied to their carriages. 



21 . A slight up and down movement such as is imparted 
to the end of pole or shafts by the horses when in motion, 
must cause the spring cap to rock or move ; if there is no 
motion to the spring cap, again remove the coupling and 
slightly file the cap where too tight. 




22. The shaft and pole irons are 
now ready to be welded. 

The end of the shafts should rest 
in bend of thill iron, as shown, 
but it will be necessary to re- 
duce the wood to 5-16 in. thick at 
the end ; reduce the wood on the 
front or straight side so that the shaft 
can be put in and taken out of the 
coupling box without the wood strik- 
ing the top of the coupling box. Al- 
so see cut on page 5, with figures. 



23. Never bend shaft or pole irons at the place pro- 
vided for bending, without being properly heated to a 
bright red : it is a dangerous practice to gald the iron at 
this point by hammering when below a good red heat. 



— 14 — 



24. Clamp the irons to shafts and pole and when the 
shafts are raised 44 in. at harness stirrup or tugs and the 
pole 40 in. at its front end, the hooks must show 1-4 in. at 
CJ as shown on page 5 : examine carefully when in this posi- 
tion whether they need bending or straightening. The 
amount is just what they show more or less than 1-4 in. 
at the point indicated ; loosen the iron, lay sideways upon 
a smooth board and 
mark outline as 
shown in this figure 
with a pencil or scri- 
ber ; then mark up- 
on the board the dif- 
ference in the bend 
as required by shift- 
ing the iron into the 
proper position and alter the bend to this mark ; the op- 
posite iron may then be bent to correspond with the first 
exactly. 

To give more bend lay the heated iron upon an anvil, rest 
the weight of a sledge hammer upon it aud strike a light 
blow upon the back of Hhe projecting cooled end of the 
iron so as to increase the bend. 

If it is necessary to give less bend place the heated 
hook iron sideways and with the end cooled off, into a 
bench vice about 1^ in. open and straighten the iron by 
pulling at the end of the iron with the right hand. 







25. Harden the hook and pole ends; heat them to a 
bright red heat and cool off in clean cold water. The 
irons are now ready to be bolted to the shafts. 



— 15 — 

26. The bottom and back surfaces of the hooks must 
be bent to correspond with a straight edge, so that they 
will not bind in the coupling. 

If the axle at coupling is not straight but somewhat in- 
clined as shown in the annexed cut at e and^ 




* f 

then the bottom face of the hook irons must be placed at 
the same inclination; be careful not to reverse the angle in 
bending or twisting; the twisting maybe done as a last 
operation after the irons are secured to shafts or pole by 
fastening one hook in a bench vice and by bearing down 
on the opposite side of the shafts or pole or it may be done 
with a strong monkey wrench, secured to the end of the 
iron which has to be bent or twisted. 

Never be satisfied until the back of the hook and also 
its narrow bottom face conforms to a straight edge, or else 
its bottom face to angle of axle, if there is any inclination 
to the axle where the couplings are fitted. 



The operation of squaring the irons, must be attended 
to as explained above in No. 26. 



LIBRARY OF CONGRESS 




021 470 346 i 




H. A. LUTTGENS, 

Box .131, 

PATERSON, - NEW JERSEY, 

UNITED STATES OF AMERICA. 



